Wonderful perfumes and freshness with cut flowers, citrus and dark berries. Violets, too. Full-bodied and layered with gorgeous fruit and clarity. Hints of bark and stone. Some conifer, too. Racy and long. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

94+ Here's another very interesting wine from Volpaia that has since been moved up to Grand Selezione status. The 2018 Chianti Classico Riserva Coltassala (with 9,000 bottles made) is 95% Sangiovese and 5% Mammolo. Initially, the wine puts forward an elegant and streamlined personality, but it quickly takes on volume with dark fruit layering and sweet spice. This vintage offers an especially focused or sharp personality that bodes well for its future bottle evolution. - ML

Aromas of French oak, leather and espresso mingle with whiffs of spiced plum. The firm palate features dried cherry, licorice and tobacco framed in tightly woven, fine-grained tannins. It closes on a note of coffee bean. Drink 2024–2028. KERIN O’KEEFE

Fresh and focused, delivering black cherry, blackberry and stone flavors, with a structure that borders on racy. This firms up nicely on the lingering finish, which bears tinges of iron and sanguine. Best from 2023 through 2035. 150 cases imported.