Layered, textured, deep, cigar box, cassis and earth, managing to simultaneously stretch out, and burrow down. The edges open slowly but surely and seductively. Still inky in colour, this has all the powerful texture and...

The 1983 Beychevelle may constitute one of the hidden gems of this era. A recent bottle was not quite firing on all cylinders. The best encounter remains a double magnum direct from the château that boasted outgoing black...

The 2010 Branaire-Ducru has a lovely mélange of red and black fruit, hints of dried blood and autumn leaves suggesting that this is moving into its secondary phase. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine...

Spicy, rich and full of ripe fruit, this wine has great potential. It is structured and dense while bringing out a stylish elegance. Blackberry fruit dominates the tannins to create a wine that has both concentration and...

Delivers a solid, racy beam of raspberry coulis, black currant paste and blackberry fruit, underscored by a racy graphite spine. Flashes of fruitcake and tar show on the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Best from...

Plum colour, with spiced damson and raspberry leaf aromatics. A good few years from being truly open and ready to drink, this is nevertheless superbly enjoyable, even if closed in. Unrolls to show waves of cocoa bean...