The 2002 Lynch-Bages is showing brilliantly, after a four-hour double decant, wafting from the glass with an utterly classic nose of cassis and loamy soil mingled with hints of cedar and oak vanillin. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated and layered, with plenty of rich, powdery tannins and lively acids, as its structure begins to melt, the wine's depth and length is becoming more and more apparent. Like the best examples of this vintage, the 2002 Lynch-Bages has proven a real sleeper. - William Kelley

Dark ruby in colour with soft russet on the edges, this still feels like a young wine, showcasing the slow progression of top Pauillac even in vintages that have less widespread acclaim. Campfire smoke, firm tannins, good acidities, plenty of spice, tobacco, dried fruit, saffran, this is edging towards tertiary now but remains well structured. 65% new oak.

The 2002 Lynch-Bages shows just a little bricking on the rim. The nose is initially reticent with earthy black fruit, cedar and tobacco, a bit conservative compared to its peers. The palate offers leafy black fruit mixed with sage and black pepper. This feels a little austere and a bit mean on the finish, though it will appeal to those seeking classic, old-school Bordeaux and who don’t want to cellar their wine. Tasted at the Lynch Bages vertical at the château. -- Neal Martin