Chocolate mint, truffle, flowers, dried plums, smoke and cherries create the attention-seeking perfume. I love all the fresh, dark-chocolate coated cherries, silky tannins, freshness and the dark chocolate end note which comes along with salty, dried plums. At 20 years of age this has reached maturity. Drink from 2024-2038.

The 2004 Château L'Eglise-Clinet needed 30-40 minutes to open in the glass before offering blackberry, briary, leather and black truffle scents that are very harmonious and actually build momentum in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, a little powdery in texture with black pepper and clove infused on what feels like a structured, masculine finish that is so typical of this vintage. However, it is well balanced and quite long in the mouth, certainly a commendable wine of the vintage, a L'Eglise-Clinet that should age well for another 10-15 years. This is a classic Pomerol and a classic L'Eglise-Clinet from Denis Durantou. Tasted February 2016. - Neal Martin