Inky rich damson with edges of russet and a curl of campfire smoke. This is elegant and balanced, juicy cassis, damson puree and bilberry fruits. There is a generosity to the structure, with concentration through the palate, with plenty of firm Pauillac tannins and finesse. An excellent 2004 that also delivered high yields of around 57hl/h (the full AOC allowance), and yet is still going strong, proof of how much natural intensity there is on these soils. 60% new oak.

As always, Lynch-Bages comes in with an impressive performance. It is rich, dense and ripe with black fruit flavors. The texture is solid, the intense fruits complemented by ripe tannins. And, to finish, there is the freshness of currant fruit acidity. A really fine wine. ROGER VOSS

Lynch-Bages provides the beauty and grandeur of Pauillac on a smaller scale than the firsts. It's as polished as any of the great wines of the region, with lovely cassis flavors on a silken frame. Complex and savory, the purity of the fruit makes this wine mouthwatering even at this early stage in its evolution. Put a case away; this is structured to age for 20 years and beyond.

The 2004 Lynch Bages, which contains 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, the highest thus far, has a refined bouquet with blackberry, wild strawberry, orange rind and light graphite scents, holding up very nicely after 20 years. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly lactic entry, finely balanced with a keen line of acidity and a dash of black pepper towards the finish. It's not long, but there is plenty of sapidity here. Drink over the next decade. -- Neal Martin