The 2004 Comtes de Champagne is at a glorious peak of early maturity where the first notes of aromatic and flavor development have arrived, and yet the wine remains fresh. Apricot, baked apple tart, pastry and touch of reduction all run through this super-classic Comtes de Champagne. Now showing the gentlest hint of patina, the 2004 is magnificent. The delicately saline finish is a thing of beauty. At the outset, many Chefs de Cave believed the 2004s would not age, since at the time, yields were the highest ever in Champagne. Time has proved otherwise for the top wines. This is a great bottle of the 2004, the best I have had yet. -- Antonio Galloni

2004 provided a big harvest, with excellent ripeness and balance – another age-worthy vintage. The Comtes is a standout wine in this strong vintage, with pronounced, youthful aromas that range from lemon and mineral to exotic passion fruit and brioche. With a fine and abundant mousse, a lively acidity and plenty of extract, this wine has charm, finesse and enough density to gently coat the palate and sustain it through a lovely, persistent finish.

It’s fascinating to taste the 2004 Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne after the 2002, something I have been able to do on a few occasions. The 2004 is all about minerality, precision and tension. It doesn’t have the sheer richness or power of the 2002, but it makes up for that with its crystalline purity and sheer energy. Bright hints of lemon oil, white flowers and crushed rocks are layered into the pointed, vibrant finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2034. - Antonio Galloni

Like so many of the top 2004 bottlings from Champagne, the ’04 Comtes de Champagne is showing all the signs of a very long life of utterly classic evolution for this bottling. At our vertical here in New York in October, the wine was showing great potential, as it wafts from the glass in a blossoming mélange of pear, white peach, very complex, chalky minerality, brioche, a touch of vanilla bean, orange zest, discreet floral tones and a lovely, smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, and racy, with a very fine core, laser-like focus and grip, elegant mousse and great cut and bounce on the very long and still fairly youthful finish. Comtes de Champagne is always so well-balanced out of the blocks, that it always seems accessible, but this wine really deserves at least a solid handful of more years of bottle age before starting to drink, as it is only at the outset of its vinous journey. 95+

A rich and enticing aroma of roasted hazelnut heralds this elegant blanc de blancs, with flavors of pastry, poached apple, crystallized honey and candied ginger riding the finely detailed mousse. This is a touch smoky, presenting a resonant minerality on the finish. Drink now through 2029. – AN