Noticeable but not invasive wood and menthol frame a slightly riper array of aromas that are quite similar to those of the regular cuvée. Here too there is outstanding density and power to the even more concentrated broad-shouldered and robust flavors that possess even better depth and persistence on the impeccably well-balanced, saline and palate coating finish. This is presently extremely primary and while it’s clear that this offers huge upside development potential it’s also clear that plenty of patience will be required. 2031+

Produced from vines more than 100 years old in the heart of the Clos de Vougeot vineyard, this is an impressive wine with a long future. The wood aging is already surrounded by ripe, intense black fruits. A fresher character comes from the bright acidity of the vintage, giving the wine a lift. The aftertaste is long and concentrated. Drink from 2024. — Roger Voss

Perfumed, featuring cherry, rose, sandalwood and green olive notes. Currant, raspberry and spice flavors chime in as this builds to a lingering aftertaste. Shows fine balance and complexity, with finesse. Best from 2020 through 2035. — B.S.

The 2013 Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru, picked from 5 October according to Pierre Labet, has a fragrant bouquet, fresher than many other tasted, pure raspberry and wild strawberry fruit, nicely integrated oak. The palate is less rustic than many others, finely balanced, with moderate depth and just a bit of hardness on the finish that one can easily abide. Lovely, though would I cellar long-term? Probably no. -- Neal Martin