Over the years, this has taken on more weight. The colour is deep and there's no lack of rich, ripe blackcurrant fruit on the nose. Fleshy and compact, it is backed by assertive tannins. It's forceful and chocolatey without being extracted, and there are no rough edges. Although the acidity is moderate, the wine is not yet tiring.

Part of the select group of impressive wines from this year, this wine is ripe, rich and firmly structured. Black-currant fruitiness forms the base for solid tannins and a concentrated texture. The hints of wood-aging need to soften. Drink from 2022. — R.V.

Even on the nose you feel that there is depth and interest here, plenty of character at the 10 year point, and even a whisper of appellation signature. This is classic, old school, balanced St Julien, juicy and enjoyable, and one to recommend. Expect cassis and bilberry fruits, autumnal hedgerow, a crackle of campfire, even an edge of crayon. Good. Harvest October 2 and 15, cropped at 35hl/ha.