Moving to the 2020 Barbaresco Cotta, fantastic mineral-tinged aromas of crushed stones, pencil shavings, and blackberry are followed by a medium-bodied red with a ripe yet linear feel and crunchy red fruits of red plum, orange rind, and clove. I liked this for its more tension-packed and energetic feel and stony texture. Drink 2025-2040.

Game, molten chocolate, menthol and baked plum aromas follow over to the supremely elegant, savory palate along with star anise and blood orange. Taut, fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity provide balance and seamless support. 2026–2035.

The 2020 Barbaresco Cottá is another fabulous wine in this range from Sottimano. Dark and super-classic in bearing, the 2020 has tremendous stature along with a darker and more somber personality than usual. The balance here is just mind-blowing. Scorched earth, leather, tobacco and incense infuse the finish with tons of nuance to complement its muscular personality. - Antonio Galloni

Notes of raspberries and plum skins with walnuts, bark, ground spices and wet earth. Polished and a little chewy with medium to full body and chalky texture to the tannins. Firm and steady. Linear finish. Drink from 2025 onwards.

94+ A wine from Sottimano that also draws its fruit from the village of Neive (and Barbaresco, because these 2.8 hectares of vines are on the border), the 2020 Barbaresco Cottá shows an austere character with pronounced rust or iodine aromas that are neatly layered into dark fruit and dried cherry. The wine sports a generous, medium-weight texture that offers a good amount of textural firmness to the palate. Give this pretty wine a little more time to flesh out. 9,000 bottles were produced. - ML