An absolutely brilliant wine, the 2021 Ontogeny is an appellation blend put together by Bevan, and it's a year-in, year-out incredible value. Competing with wines 2-3 times its price (if not more), it reveals a deep purple hue as well as an exuberant, full-bodied, concentrated style carrying loads of cr me de cassis, tobacco, violets, charcoal, and graphite-like aromas and flavors. Super-rich, opulent, yet flawlessly balanced, with silky tannins, you should buy a case of this if you can. It should have at least 10-15 years of prime drinking.

The producer's entry-level red blend, still available for under a C-note, the 2021 Ontogeny Red Wine features lifted, slightly minty and vaguely herbal notions that impart a cool aspect to the wine's ripe cherry fruit. Full-bodied, creamy and lush, it lacks the terroir nuances of the single-vineyard wines, but it remains delicious and easy to drink, with a bright, fresh finish. - Joe Czerwinski