Dried flowers, dried lemon rind, fresh apples, baking spices and stone on the nose, followed by a medium body with fresh acidity. Refined, silky and poised, with a polished texture. It’s harmonious and well-crafted with a vibrant finish. Drink or hold.

The 2022 Chardonnay unfurls slowly in the glass to reveal peach preserves, quince paste, allspice, hazelnut, toast and beeswax aromas. The light-bodied palate features a compelling textural grip and expansive, spicy flavors. Its concentration is balanced by fireworks of fresh acidity, and it has a long, savory finish.

This is truly a hedonistic treat. The delights begin with rich lemon gelato and rosemary aromas that burst from the glass. The equally rich flavor of an orange creamsicle melds with bits of saline and lime zest. Gentle acidity wraps it all up into a plush ball of enjoyment. — Michael Alberty

Pouring a similar straw color, the 2022 Chardonnay Rose Rock reveals wonderful notes of pithy lemon citrus, fresh apples, honeycomb, and a slightly more reductive note of flint. It’s lovely all the way through, with vibrant energy and clean acidity.

92+ The 2022 Chardonnay from the Drouhin family’s Roserock estate is a superb wine in the making, coming in at 14.1 percent octane in this roller-coaster vintage that began with unprecedented frost and then a fine, unseasonably warm fin de saison to properly let the bunches catch up and ripen to perfection. The wine is fermented half in barrel and half in tank and went through full malo. The bouquet is pure and precise, wafting from the glass in a mix of golden delicious apple, pear, fresh almond, a beautifully complex base of soil tones, white lilies and a gentle framing of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is zesty, full-bodied and nascently complex, with a superb core of fruit, fine soil inflection and grip, lovely balance and a long, pure and vibrant finish. This is already very tasty, but more complexity will emerge with bottle age. Fine juice.

The 2022 Chardonnay Roserock is youthfully understated and savory, with dusty florals and ginger-spiked green apples forming its delicate bouquet. This is cool-toned and perfumed within, beautifully lifted and finessed with ripe pit fruits, gaining a creamy texture the longer it sits on the palate. This finishes long with a mineral clay-like resonance and lingering floral complexities.