The 2022 Le Mont Sec is a parcel of Chenin planted on clay with scattered flint, giving a certain tension to the style you certainly don't find in the come-hither Clos du Bourg. Its supple, concentrated core of fruit sits within a framework of structure. Both acidity and phenolics add tension and sinew. While some natural residual sugar remains (5.5g/L residual sugar), this rounds out the palate and brings balance - it's near-as-dammit dry in its impression and technically dry under Vouvray's rules. I'd like to see this with a little more bottle age as, compared with, say, Clos du Bourg, this isn't yet ready to approach but should blossom. -- Rebecca Gibb MW

A very expressive, rich and inviting wine, with an enticing mix of juicy lemon, yellow apple and honeysuckle flavors flecked with dried thyme, brioche and chamomile tea. Shows a lot of stuffing, with vivid acidity and chalky tannins providing a framework for the density, extending through the quinine-laced finish. Drink now through 2032. — K.B.